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Anon
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Overheating problem

Hi

I have the CF2 with the 2.0 engine.

The van has been seeming to overheat for a few weeks now. I noticed that the viscous fan was no longer working properly so I fitted a thermostatically controlled electric radiator fan, and also a new water pump. This didn't cure the overheating.

I then removed the thermostat but the problem was still there.

I then suspected the coolant sensor so changed that, but the problem is still there.

Does anyone have any ideas as this is getting confusing?!

Thanks in advance

Stu


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Sun 26 Apr 2015 @ 22:15 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hello.
As you have removed the thermostat when you run the engine with the rad cap off can you see the coolant moving in the rad. If not could be a blocked rad or engine block or one of the hoses. If the radiator cap is not sealing due to poor rubber seal against the bottom lip of the filler or the spring has weakened then the system will not pressurise. Are you loosing coolant from the cap overflow.
Andy

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Mon 27 Apr 2015 @ 09:40 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hello Again
Forgot to mention that if when you run the engine with the cap off if the coolant level rises quickly( starts overflowing as soon as you start the engine) or you see bubbles in the coolant then that could be head gasket starting to fail and the engine is over pressurising the cooling system causing the rad cap to open.
Andy

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Mon 27 Apr 2015 @ 09:58 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks for your reply

I will try running it with the rad cap off in the morning.

There is no coolant loss from the rad cap overflow, even when the temp gauge goes into the red. That's why I thought the gauge was faulty as it doesn't actually seem to overheat (rad 'boiling over' etc)
Mon 27 Apr 2015 @ 22:11 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hello.
If there is no coolant loss and this has been on going for some time it may be a gauge problem. The voltage stabiliser for the gauges could be putting out the wrong voltage when it warms up. Does the fuel gauge appear to be reading high. When you first turn on the ignition but don't start the engine does the temp gauge move up the scale at all. Haynes manual page 282 chapter 27 details stabiliser testing. You may need an anologue voltage meter as a digital might not settle to give a reading. if the gauge itself is suspect alternative electric gauges with senders are available from ebay etc.
Andy

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Tue 28 Apr 2015 @ 00:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Overheating.

Hi to all,

When I brought my old Bedford home it had an overheating problem My first move was to run it without a thermostat I then found out that the radiator was choked so that was replaced, only to find I had bubble coming up through the coolant so the head gasket had to be replaced and the head skimmed.

doujoy

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Tue 28 Apr 2015 @ 10:03 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi

I ran it with rad cap off. Seems to be moving coolant around, and no overflowing. I definitely think you could be right about the gauge not being correct, although the fuel one doesn't read high.
I will run through the voltage stabiliser test as soon as I get chance.

Thanks for the advice

Stu


Tue 28 Apr 2015 @ 10:57 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Right, I have tested the voltage stabiliser as described in the Haynes manual. The manual says there should be regular pulses, with the mid point of the needle swing being 10 volts. When I did the test it was swinging between 0v and 14v, making the mid point 7v.
So is this normal? Or is it likely that the stabiliser is faulty?
Wed 29 Apr 2015 @ 18:23 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Gethin
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that's a normal reading

to test the water why dont you put a thermometer in the top of the rad and see what temp it actually is.

another way of checking is to use an infrared thermometer and check various sections of the engine and cooling system to see how much difference there is in
temp between these points.
Wed 29 Apr 2015 @ 19:13 View Gethin   Email Gethin   Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks for the information.

Yes I was thinking of trying a thermometer to check the actual rad temperature, will do that next
Wed 29 Apr 2015 @ 19:58 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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over heating

This maybe that the thermostat is to stronge try putting a lower temp opening one.I had this problem last year did the change and it is now great.Cheers JIm.

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Wed 29 Apr 2015 @ 20:38 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hello.
If the voltage stabiliser output is correct, the temp sender is ok and the actual engine is not getting to hot then next time the gauge is showing hot disconnect the wire at the sender to check that the gauge returns to zero. This will prove you don't have a problem with the wire between the sender and gauge picking up a resistance earth in the loom or framing as everything including the loom warms up. If the gauge shows any reading replace the wire between it and the sender.
Andy

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Thu 30 Apr 2015 @ 10:16 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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I don't think it is a thermostat problem as I have removed it completely.

I will try disconnecting the sender wire tomorrow and see what happens with the gauge, thanks for the tip
Thu 30 Apr 2015 @ 21:45 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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overheating

You say you have removed the thermostat but what is happening now..?Doe's the gauge still show hot or cold.Doe's the engine Over heat and water comes out of the over flow?Or ia there something else happening?Cheers JIm.

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Fri 01 May 2015 @ 20:28 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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overheating

Just checked my van and the thermostat Opens at88c with standard plugs.Just thought this may help.Cheers Jim.

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Fri 01 May 2015 @ 20:38 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Yes, the thermostat is removed completely. The temp gauge is still going into the red, but no water comes out of the overflow. When it's turned off, you can hear some 'bubbling' noises from the rad but nothing major.

It is weird, as the temp gauge goes into the red, sometimes just above, but then usually creeps back down a little. It makes me nervous continuing to drive it when it is in the red though, as I don't want to cause any damage!

Sat 02 May 2015 @ 10:07 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Forgot to say, I removed the sender wire while gauge was in the red, and the gauge went right down so that's not the problem.

Also, once I could open the rad cap, I tried putting the temp probe from the new rad fan thermostat into the top of the rad. It was around 80-90 degrees when the fan then switched on.


Sat 02 May 2015 @ 10:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hello.
Have you checked for an airlock or blockage in the heater rad. When your gauge is going into the red does switching the heater on full bore on the hot setting bring it down at all. Do you have a manual override switch to bring in the electric fan and when the fan cuts in does that bring the gauge down. Have you checked that the fins on the rad are clear so the air through flow is good.
Could you borrow another cf temp gauge to compare?
Andy

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Sat 02 May 2015 @ 11:39 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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I was thinking it may be a blockage in the heater rad. Yesterday I noticed when it was up to temp the pipe going to heater rad was hot but the one returning to block was very cool, almost cold. I was thinking of bypassing it by connecting the flow and return pipes together to at least check it.

The electric fan does cut in before the temp gauge goes into the red, but the temp continues to rise. The rad fins look fine so should allow plenty of airflow.

Stu

Sat 02 May 2015 @ 15:46 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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over heating

What is the temp stamped on the thermostat?

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Sat 02 May 2015 @ 19:45 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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