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Anon
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I think it was 88C on the thermostat. It has been removed though
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 Sun 03 May 2015 @ 20:16
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Anon
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I have now bypassed the matrix and problem is still there....running out of ideas for this!
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Wed 06 May 2015 @ 21:13
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Anon
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Overheating
Hi,if I were you I would put it all back together.Run it up to working temp and see what happens.If the gauge hits hot before the stat opens I would put a lower opening thermostat in .When you run the engine up to temp before what happens,do you loose water or what?If you run the engine with out a thermostat does it over heat ?Cheerrs,Jim.
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Wed 06 May 2015 @ 21:43
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Anon
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Hello.
Have you checked that the heater matrix is clear and the heater control valve is allowing flow.. Reconnect the heater and bleed the system as per section 8 (page 240)of the Haynes manual. Run the engine with the heater valve open so you know this is in the circuit. Both pipes to the matrix should get hot. If the gauge reads hot does turning the heater blower on full affect it. Does manually turning on the electric rad fan bring the temp down. If none of this helps then changing the actual gauge and sender for one which reads temperature rather than basic colour bars would be my next step.
Andy
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Thu 07 May 2015 @ 09:39
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Anon
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The stat opens once the gauge says its up to normal temp. Without the thermostat, the gauge still goes into the red. It doesn't lose any water though, and doesn't seem to boil over and come out of the overflow from rad cap. i have also tried a different (and known working) rad cap, and it is still the same.
With the heater matrix connected, I have bled the system as per Haynes manual. All pipes did get hot. The heater blower doesn't work so cannot see if that affects temp. When the rad fan comes on, it doesn't really seem to cool down. I have the rad fan thermostat probe placed between the rad fins. when set at 40C, it comes on when the gauge is around two thirds of way towards red, but temp doesn't come down.
Surely if it was overheating properly, there would be steam and water coming out of the overflow from the rad cap too? I'm not convinced it is actually overheating
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Thu 07 May 2015 @ 16:38
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Anon
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Hello. It doesn't sound like its really overheating to me. The only thing I can think of is if you have a problem with circualation in the block and the area near the temp sender is running hotter than the rest. Remove the sender and check you get a good flow of coolant from the block. You could pack/thicken a garden hose and push it in the rad filler to make sure you give it a good flush with cold water. Messy but not dangerous. Otherwise I am thinking the gauge itself could be iffy but gauges usually work or they don't. For one to apparently recalibrate itself is unusual. When the rad fan cuts in on the stat does it go off after a while because that would indicate it is cooling the engine but the gauge is not seeing it.
Andy
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Thu 07 May 2015 @ 18:45
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Anon
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I did think it wasn't overheating.
However, today it went above the red and when I stopped there was some steam and water coming from the overflow 
I have flushed the rad recently but could try it again. There was a good flow of coolant when I changed the temp sender recently too.
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Thu 07 May 2015 @ 21:00
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Anon
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Oh dear. If you are sure the coolant system is flowing properly and your now getting water loss then could be a failing head gasket getting worse. Can you get a gas analyser test done on the rad.
Andy
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Fri 08 May 2015 @ 10:07
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Anon
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The reason I wasn't thinking it could be head gasket is because there is usually no water loss. That is the first time it has had steam coming from overflow.
I am going to do a compression test as soon as I get chance.
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Fri 08 May 2015 @ 15:30
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Anon
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over heating
Just a thought what size is the electric fan as it should make a differance.Jim
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Sat 09 May 2015 @ 20:52
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Anon
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jimfixit wrote:
Just a thought what size is the electric fan as it should make a differance.Jim
Hi,
The fan is 12 inches. It comes on but doesn't seem to bring the temp down.
The overheating problem originally started when I noticed that the viscous fan wasn't working properly, it was just spinning slowly but not creating any cooling effect. So far I have fitted the new fan, a new water pump and a new coolant temp sensor.
I did do a compression test today today too, the readings varied between 110 and 134 psi. The variation is a bit big but there is no water loss so I can't really see how it could be the head gasket.
Stu
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Sun 10 May 2015 @ 19:51
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Anon
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A daft thought.
Hi stuvaux,
As I say above just a daft thought but could the electric fan be failing to draw through cold air because they are spinning in the wrong direction, reverse the connections on the fan wires and see if it makes any difference.
They could be drawing hot air from the engine instead of cold air from outside.
doujoy
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Sun 10 May 2015 @ 20:22
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Anon
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Mr D.S.Joyce. wrote:
Hi stuvaux,
As I say above just a daft thought but could the electric fan be failing to draw through cold air because they are spinning in the wrong direction, reverse the connections on the fan wires and see if it makes any difference.
They could be drawing hot air from the engine instead of cold air from outside.
doujoy
Good thought, but I have double checked and I fitted it to pull air from outside. It does seem weird how it doesn't cool the engine, even though it definitely draws air in from outside....
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Sun 10 May 2015 @ 20:36
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Anon
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Update!
I am now thinking the radiator may be blocked. It has been thoroughly flushed and the water does come out clear. However, I tried an infrared thermometer to read various temperatures. With the engine running, and the gauge approaching the red, the top hose as it goes into the radiator measured around 65C, and the bottom hose as it exits the radiator was around 63C. The temp over the rad was around 18C. Surely this means that the cooled water in the radiator is somehow not circulating properly and allowing the cooled water through.
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Wed 20 May 2015 @ 18:38
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Anon
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over heating
With all the checking that you have done,I would now take the head off and have it scimed as a worp can cause over heating.Cheers Jim
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Wed 20 May 2015 @ 20:21
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Anon
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Hello.
Got to be worth trying another rad. Anything you can beg/borrow with a pressure cap and the same size hose connections and layout that will go in the gap to see if the cooling improves. Temporary fixings can usually be bodged up with strong zip ties or wire to tie it in place for test purposes only.
Andy
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Thu 21 May 2015 @ 09:36
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Anon
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Beigebengy wrote:
Hello.
Got to be worth trying another rad. Anything you can beg/borrow with a pressure cap and the same size hose connections and layout that will go in the gap to see if the cooling improves. Temporary fixings can usually be bodged up with strong zip ties or wire to tie it in place for test purposes only.
Andy
I have a Chevette with a very similar (though smaller) rad, so will try that over the weekend....fingers crossed! Thanks
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Thu 21 May 2015 @ 21:29
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