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Anon
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Cheap Electronic Ignition.

I bought an electronic ignition kit from Maplins last year as a cheap way of fitting electronic ignition to the van. Well this weekend I finally got round to fitting it, and thought I’d take a few photos of the process to share.

The Maplins unit retains the points, but only uses them to switch a low current signal. This signal in turn switches a large transistor which does the work of loading and unloading the coil. The main benefit is that the low current doesn’t damages the points like the original condenser/points operation. Some websites claim that using this, you can go up to 50.000 miles before the points need adjusting or changing….well we will see.

Here is what I did…

First I marked where to cut the hole for the transistor, in such a way that the circuit board will fit into the box.





Next I used a drill and a file to make the hole.





Then built up the circuit following the instructions. Making sure that I got the diodes the right way round.



Next, bolt the heat sink, box top and circuit together, lastly soldering the legs of the big transistor.



With wires attached, fit into box…. I had a slight problem here as the circuit board corners fouled screw posts in the box, only by a millimetre, so I chamfered the corners of the circuit board to fit.



Fitted to a bracket under the bonnet in the van, all the wires head towards the coil. The positive connects to the live side of the coil, that heads off to the ignition key. The ground goes to the bracket that holds the coil down to the engine. The side of the coil that goes to the points, you disconnect, and this now goes though the new ignition circuit…. Think the diagram in the booklet explains it better.

Diagram
http://store.qkits.com/images/k2543wiringdiag.jpg



The instructions also say to disconnect or remove the condenser. One of the advantages of this type of electronic ignition is that you can always revert back to a condenser/points based ignition. All you have to do is reconnect the condenser and the wire that goes from the points to the coil. I have left the wire that goes from the points long enough to reach the coil and have a spade junction so that I can easily swap back at the roadside in a few minutes.

I was a little concerned that the instruction leaflet said under testing “Now the engine may start”… but was pleasantly surprised when the engine burst into life the second the key was turned. The big test will be when I try it from cold in a couple of weeks time.

So there we have it. I have not road-tested yet, but the process so far was less painful than I expected.

Kit £10.99
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ignition-amplifier-kit-3162

Box £1.99
http://www.maplin.co.uk/general-purpose-abs-plastic-box-a-e-series-43708

Nigel.

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Sun 06 Feb 2011 @ 20:24 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Great news Nigel, at that sort of price it's certainly worth a go.

Rae & Ann

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Sun 06 Feb 2011 @ 20:46 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Nigel
how have you found this in practice? Any noticeable difference in engine response or MPG?

thanks
Tony
Sat 12 Mar 2011 @ 13:40 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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I must confess that I haven’t been on the road yet. Starts up fine. I probably won’t get a good run until April. Another member fitted one of these after seeing my post, he PM me saying that he had done 20 mile and it worked fine. He noticed that the idle speed was slightly higher.,,, I did wonder if the timing should be checked after fitting this type of electronic ignition as I think the spark will occur fractionally earlier.

Nigel.
Sat 12 Mar 2011 @ 19:58 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Checking the ignition timing is mandatory even when renewing contact breaker points - there's always some difference between old & new & it's better to assume that there'll be some difference with an electronic trigger.

Once the timing is checked & adjusted as necessary the only maintenance needed with electronic fitted to a Delco distributor is a few drops of oil in the hole in the contact breaker baseplate and a smear of grease on the advance weights contact areas whenever the engine is being serviced.

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Sat 12 Mar 2011 @ 20:50 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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